New Zealand

Vacation 2012

After a lot of searching and arranging we where finally on our way: New Zealand. Yes! Five weeks and several thousand kilometers of road lay waiting for us, leaving the winter for late summer.

Since we had such an early flight we've booked a room at the van der valk hotel near Schiphol Airport. We had some snow on the way there and at times it was interesting but we made it just fine.After we arrived we checked in had some dinner and went to bed early.

We got up at 5 (very little sleep that night) and headed to the long stay parking facility at schiphol, which reminded me of a skating range. A short bus ride later and we where at shiphol, fairly close to where we actually had to be.

Checking in came with a little hick-up I forgot to enter my entire first name so that had to be corrected and when boarding I found out I put my deodorant in the wrong bag, bad boy very lethal stuff deodorant. So lost that one ...

Boarding the plane was neatly ordered by kids and old folks, people with money, club members (dunno which club) and "the rest", meaning us. All this was done by a kid who was heavily in touch with his feminine side and a set of card board sings reminiscent of those used to indicate boxing rounds.

We flew with Singapore airlines and I have to say these are a friendly and professional lot.

The Ambassador Transit Hotel in Singapore was quaint you had a fairly decent size room complete with shower and a closed curtain. No window, just a curtain hanging in front of a wall as if to cover a window.

Wednesday 15th of February, we landed in Christchurch international and had no problem getting through customs. The airport was quite a difference from Shiphol and Singapore its rather small and the people actually friendly, even the customs officer made light conversation. We picked up a set of prepaid mobile phones and a USB stick to be able to access internet once we where on the road. Our car was a bit of a surprise we got a blue Mazda instead of the Toyota on the itinerary. Which in hindsight was a bit of good luck, the mazda was a tad more powerful then the Toyota. And on New Zealand's roads it doesn't hurt to have a few extra horses.

Quickenberry Lodge & Guesthouse

Driving in New Zealand is a challenge in the beginning, but as long as you stay focused on driving on the wrong side of the road (specially when turning) and heath the "slow down to X km for this bend" signs you should be fine. The lower the speed, the more you have to pay attention.

Liesje bought a snazzy navigation set for the trip which worked beautifully and after only a few tries we ended up at the Quickenberry Lodge and Guesthouse in Windwhistle. Having a navigation system in your car in New Zealand is highly recommended! The Quickenberry is located next to a golf course and is run by Christine and Robbie two friendly and open people. The guesthouse is very well kept and you might be forgiven to think you are staying in a luxury hotel with ditto kitchen but the involved attitude of Robbie and specially Christine (how couldn't sit still for five minutes if she wanted to) would correct you.

Friday the 17th of February we had to leave the Quickenberry and head to our next destination Lake Tekapo.

Possums are a big source of irritation here and when we said we'd seen Christine answered with "And did you run it over?". After which a debate during which she presented Liesje with a very nice sweater made from Merrino wool and Possum. After asking Christine where found it she gave us the directions to the tin shed, a small shop outside geraldine.

The Washpenn Falls

Lake Tekapo and Parkbrae Estate

The Tin Shed is a nice shop on the outskirts of Geraldine which has all sort of clothing and what not. Mind you that distances here take on a different meaning as you can easily spend an hour just driving to get groceries. The thin shed is a really nice shop and I’d advise anyone in the neighborhood to have a look.

Afterwords we headed into Geraldine and did some much needed groceries and pick up a cool-box. We tried to get some pants for me there but, they don’t have much in my size … first hint that I should lay of the chocolate.

Arriving at Parkbrae Estate at Lake Tekapo, I was a little underwhelmed. It has a great location near the lake overlooking the church it felt like staying in an overhauled trailer although there was not lack of space.

We had a few strolls down the metropolitan town of lake tekapo which counts about 400 souls and at night made our way to the Earth & Sky Night Star Gazing tour for which we where late … thankfully they had a second tour.

Lake Tekapo

“Remember to dress very warmly as even in summer it can be cold on the mountain at night.”. Define: “cold” …

So overdressed as we where the absolute dark combined with the very entertaining presentation on top of mount John (what’s in a name) made it a very nice way to spend the night. Its amazing what you can see once people are making an active effort to prevent light pollution. The view of the stars was stunning, the commentary entertaining and the telescopes they provided where a far cry from the little one we had at home.

A nice touch was the fact that the driver couldn’t use his lights on the last leg of the journey up the mountain. Makes for interesting driving…

Lake Tekapo Flight

After a light breakfast and another leg through Lake Tekapo we headed up to the Lake Tekapo airstrip and took the Air Safari tour which was amazing. We where in luck since the weather was perfect, in fact we could see a cloud front moving in up the mountains. It looked like cotton candy creeping over the mountains. We got to see mount cook, the fox and the Franz Joseph glacier some amazingly clear, not photograph could ever compare. Truly breath taking.

Lake Hawea - Hunter Valley Station

Its sunday the 19th of February as we and we have to leave our little haunted house again and head for the hunter valley station where there was a lodge for us.

After a beautiful but exhausting drive through Central Otago “Space not pace” we arrived at Lake Hawea. Then after some puzzling we found the entrance to Hunter Valley Station and 11000 acre farm which its own (dirt) road. This road at times feels like doing a leg on Paris-Dakar and my blue mazda currently is a dusty brownish color. We where met by the lady of the manor on her quad and were directed to “the lodge”, which I’m guessing when not used by guests is used by “the lads” as she refers to the young men herding the sheep there.

As everywhere in New Zealand, the vistas are stunning. As for peace and quiet you have nothing to worry about, since there is no phone services here, nothing will disturb your peace. Being a nerd this frustrates me to no end. The furnishings are really what you expect of a working lads lodge: A few chairs and a common table two stoves and two toasters a fridge , etc., all the things you need. The showers are what you would find in you local gym, to in a room separated by a wall and plastic curtains.

Lake Hawea

We had already eaten so there was not need to cook. After some fidgeting got the wood burning heater going and not soon after turned in.

We woke up with a nice toast and coffee breakfast this morning and spend a few hours one the beach here where I managed to get sun burned yet again. The lady of the manor dropped by and left us some fresh eggs whilst we where out and later on we made conversation. She seems to rent out the lodge more as a hobby then a real source of income. At least that´s my take on it, The farm stretches for many km’s along the coast of the lake.

Rather nasty surprise, the door that separates our lodge from the lads lodge is located next to the showers. Whilst we where under the impression this was locked apparantly it wasn’t as we heard someone take a shower in “our” shower.

So much for that early morning shower..

Holly Homestead

Tuesday the 21st of February. After a somewhat uneasy night we started out from Lake Hawea driving to our current destination, the Holly Homestead B&B in Franz Josef. The route here was interesting to say the least. Its a five hour drive from Lake Hawea to Franz Jozef and that is not in a straight line. At times I felt like I was driving through a tropical rain forrest with the odd suicidal cyclist hogging the road. The road hugs the stone walls of the mountains and often takes really sharp turn (35km and your feeling like a daredevil). All the while we encountered our first bit of “bad” weather … a localized monsoon which hasn’t let up until ~22:00 local time.

I didn’t like driving in the Netherlands, but driving in New Zealand is a treat. It seems that every corner has a new stunning view. Striking mountains, beautiful winding rivers, magical waterfalls and valley’s I thought only possible in media rolled by in rapid succession. As a self confessed “earth porn” addict (the kind of porn you can show your boss, spouse, kids, etc. :grinning:), this is/was everything I could hope for.

The B&B is great, we entered the house and where greeted by the smell of freshly baked bread. The house is a converted farmhouse with much of the original charm in tact. Time for a much needed shower and shave and early bed.

We where supposed to go on the Half day Glacier Experience … that was until we saw a group returning, drenched and freezing. The rest of Franz Josef was interesting (did some kiwi watching etc.) enough, and there was of course the very nice B&B to return to. So we spent some time in front of the fire listening to music and reading before turning in.

Batch On The Beach

Thursday the 23rd of February. It had been little over a week since we landed but it might has well been a month. We’ve already seen and experienced so much that at this stage I’m almost getting used to it. On our way to our beach house destination we stop at The Junction Honey Cafe, a small restaurant on route 6 near Kumara Junction. Surprisingly good food! The instructions for our destination where rather cryptic but we managed to drive there in one go (sorta).

At first Liesje was rather miffed from the outside it looked like little more then a garage or shed tucked besides the road kilometers away from any village. The surprise came when we entered the door, Liesje went from livid to amazed in one door opening. A spacious get up with all the trimmings a fireplace, large round bath tub, comfy bed and stunning view. It had a small stereo and a kick ass collection of music, some good stuff like Nina Simone, Sam Cooke and Eric Clapton.

We popped into Greymouth to get some grub (and dutch beer) but that was all. The rest of the day was spent on the beach and at the bach, chillin’. At night we’d light a fire and watched the waves. It is one of my favorite stays on our trip for its shear peace and serenity. I sometimes listen to “Les Paul & friends” to be reminded of that place. It surprised me how much old school rock was being played or was available everywhere we stayed.

Murchison Lodge

Saturday the 25th of February with a heavy heart we leave for Murchison Lodge in (wait for it) Murchison. The drive was interesting a lot of bends, rises and falls but nothing we haven’t seen before.

AporoPondsiders

Aporo Pondsiders was an excelent stay at a small but pretty lake.

Abel Tassman Kayaks

The Crescent Guest House B&B

In Wellington we stayed at the http://www.10thecrescent.co.nz/, initially just for two nights. However an unexpected weather bomb canceld our next stay. Sue was kind enough to extend our stay. As to the weather bomb, we didn’t see much of it.